• colorado
    • colorado
    • rocky mountain nat'l park
    • comanche nat'l grassland
    • pawnee nat'l grassland
    • a perfect hike
    • san luis valley
    • dinosaur
  • travels
    • southern africa
    • australia
    • costa rica
    • france
    • italy
    • montréal
    • hawaii
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    • oregon
    • nyc
    • vermont
    • cape cod
    • washington
    • california zephyr
    • prairie road trip 2017
    • nebraska
    • usa road trip feb 2016
    • usa road trip 2016
    • u.s. landscapes
    • woodstock ny
    • edaville usa
  • series
    • birds
    • transformations
    • my grandparents' old house
    • window seat
    • mandalas
    • vanishing point
  • portraits
    • people
    • headshots
    • families
    • 2fik/colorado
    • 2fik/nyc
  • weddings
    • wedding intro/contact
    • couples
    • moments
    • details
  • gallery shows
    • urbane - bitfactory gallery
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Jeremy Patlen Photography

  • colorado
    • colorado
    • rocky mountain nat'l park
    • comanche nat'l grassland
    • pawnee nat'l grassland
    • a perfect hike
    • san luis valley
    • dinosaur
  • travels
    • southern africa
    • australia
    • costa rica
    • france
    • italy
    • montréal
    • hawaii
    • utah
    • texas
    • california
    • oregon
    • nyc
    • vermont
    • cape cod
    • washington
    • california zephyr
    • prairie road trip 2017
    • nebraska
    • usa road trip feb 2016
    • usa road trip 2016
    • u.s. landscapes
    • woodstock ny
    • edaville usa
  • series
    • birds
    • transformations
    • my grandparents' old house
    • window seat
    • mandalas
    • vanishing point
  • portraits
    • people
    • headshots
    • families
    • 2fik/colorado
    • 2fik/nyc
  • weddings
    • wedding intro/contact
    • couples
    • moments
    • details
  • gallery shows
    • urbane - bitfactory gallery
    • open spaces
    • no show
    • us
    • things of beauty
  • blog
  • about/contact

Chasing Light on the Nebraska Panhandle

The Nebraska Panhandle is wind-swept mixture of sand hills, buttes, prairie and farms. In the winter, there's a lot of brown, still frozen earth and a lot of sky. We entered Nebraska at it's highest point, just over two hours from Denver via the Pawnee National Grassland. Sadly the resident buffalo herd was shy and stayed in the distance.

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With the change in pavement at the border of Colorado, the wind farms give way to open land, dirt roads and abandoned dust bowl era homesteads. I hadn't any idea as to how many abandoned places we'd see. There were mid-century motels, gas stations, western wear stores - all, now, nothing but light and shadows.

I was lucky enough to have my friend Katie join me for my first road trip chasing light. The small town centers we visited (Kimball, Alliance, Hemingsford & Sidney) were all alive, despite more than a few empty storefronts. There were more independent restaurants and businesses than national chains and, for the most part people were friendly and very welcoming to us, who were clearly passing through. As an adult, I've only lived in cities - Manhattan, then Brooklyn and now Denver. While the towns were still functioning, very little was modern or contemporary. There's a certain retro charm to some of it, but a lot just felt disconnected.

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Carhenge is roadside Americana in its purest form. Just outside of Alliance and modeled after England's Stonehenge. We heard from a few people that Alliance will be perfectly aligned with the full solar eclipse of August 2017. The town of 8,500 is anticipating nearly 40,000 visitors.

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A selfie from Carhenge resulted in an invitation to visit a farm down an unpaved county road in Hemingsford. The Smith's live on a small wheat farm about 3 miles from where Gordon was born. It was a delightful visit with very kind people who greeted us with a pot of coffee and offered us a jar of honey. They're part of a network of "pollinator farms" - they host the hives another company tends to. I was in awe of the quantity of very worn out, dusty hats, meticulously lined up in the garage.

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Weather still controls life here more than in other places, certainly the North East. We passed through in late February and had to alter our plans due to an approaching storm. When it snows on the prairie and the wind kicks up, life stops. The wind never stops and there's nowhere for the snow to pile up. You simply can't see, so you don't go anywhere. We had planned to continue on to South Dakota, but decided to head back to Denver instead.

This was the first trip chasing light of, I hope, many. The next trip will hopefully be more planned in terms of people or organizations to meet. As always, if you know someone who shines brightly in a tough place, please put me in touch with them.

 

 

tags: chasing light, road trip, americana, midwest, prairie, nebraska, pawnee national grassland
categories: travel, travel writing
Wednesday 03.08.17
Posted by Jeremy Patlen
Comments: 1
 

San Luis Valley, Colorado

The Sangre de Cristo mountains behind flooded fields.

Great Sand Dunes National Park

Partially frozen Zapata Falls, detail. 

Crows circling an abandoned house near Crestone, CO

This is what happens when you take an iPhone pano in a car moving at 80 mph.

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The first time I saw the San Luis Valley, I was mesmerized. It was on the first day of the road trip through the south-west that I took in February 2016. A friend recommended that we take CO 285 south into New Mexico, opting for smaller country roads rather than the interstate. I made a mental note to go back to this part of the state. Little did I know that life would bring me back just a few weeks later.

The scale and vastness of this valley is deceptive. Perception is altered; something 30 miles away seems like it should only be a 10 minute drive. Rt 17 or 285 cross the valley with barely a kink in the road for 50 miles. It's surrounded by Sangre de Cristo range to the east and the San Juan mountains to the west. In between, nothing but dusty, flat farmland, off-the-grid houses, a UFO lookout tower and campground and even an alligator farm, if it's not yet sold.

Nestled into the Sangre de Cristo mountains lay the largest sand dunes in North America. Designated as national parkland by President Clinton in the 1990's, Great Sand Dunes National Park is visible clear across the valley floor. An open expanse of protected sand, you're free to wander and camp anywhere you can walk. Be prepared for blazing hot sun and one serious leg and cardio workout.

About 10 miles from the park entrance, up a dirt road and another half-mile hike are Zapata Falls. I imagine they would be wonderful for a splash in the heat of the summer. In early March the falls were still frozen over, spectacular in their stillness.

Every spring, sand hill cranes migrating northward stop in the Monte Vista National Wildlife Refuge. In the morning they take off en masse to do what cranes do before returning to roost for the night. I arrived later than I had wanted to in the morning, but there were still thousands of them around.

Americana at the gas station in Hooper, CO

Practicalities: It will take you about 3-4 hours each way from Denver, long enough to want to spend the night there rather than just take a day trip. Make sure you book accommodations before you go as there are very few places I noticed on the roads. There are gas stations, stores and restaurants throughout the area but towns are small, some just junctions in the road. There was a surprisingly good barista in the art gallery next to the post office in Moffat and a much bigger downtown in Monte Vista. Make sure you carry plenty of water if you're planning on hiking on the dunes.

tags: Nature photography, great sand dunes national park, mountains, great sand dunes, monte vista, crestone, colorado, cranes, sandhill crane, Travel writing, road trip, sand dunes, Travel photography
categories: travel writing, travel, travel photography
Sunday 05.29.16
Posted by Jeremy Patlen